A Remembrance of Old Champagne

I'm not much of a wine drinker, but once upon a time I was. As a brand new ensign, I wasn't likely to drink much in the way of really fine wine, but there are occasions when the rule meets its exception. I was flying over seas the next day to meet my first ship. I frequently passed a very fine wine shop near the Boston Public Gardens and while I'd occasionally visited to chat with the salesman, on this day I was a customer. The bottles were arranged on their sides, in hoppers, and above each hopper lay a single display bottle, so that customers could check out the merchandise. I entered, passing the more than ample Bordeaux section without a second look. The champagne section was in the rear, and given the nature of the product, it was the smallest. I didn't have to look far. Right on the corner was a unique bottle. Most champagne bottles were green, but this one had a purplish cast, and an odd shape – Veuve Clicquot - 1961. I'd had a few half bottles of champagne, though never a vintage bottle, and never Veuve Clicquot. It was August, 1975. Fourteen years can be a long time for a cork to hold pressure, so, in a fit of pure insanity, I bought not one, but two bottles. The only wine book I'd ever read said that old champagne could be a delight, or a disappointment.

Each bottle came wrapped in tissue paper; the salesman carefully bagged them, with plenty of padding, and I walked home to chill them. When the time cane, I carefully held the cork, while twisting the bottle. It cane away without a sound, leaving an eighth inch plug in the neck. A cork screw made quick work of the plug. The faintest phht told me that all might not be lost. The champagne gave off just a few bubbles in the long, slim fluted glasses. The surprise was in the drinking. I don't think that it's possible to clearly describe the taste and aroma of old champagne. The closest I could come would be to suggest a light perfume of liquid flowers. All good people should be lucky enough to taste this once in their lifetime.